Fortune smiles on those who are bold they say. In my case, often it smiles when I am foolish. This post is about my adventures and misadventures as a Fortunate Foodie in Fort Kochi around mid Feb earlier this year. Here’s sharing my serendipitous findings of What to Do and Eat in Fort Kochi with minimum planning and research. I was weighed down by the suggestions of many people to try to make new friends and get companions. I really didn’t want that, but travel companions made sense to me.
This travel adventure started when my friend Soumya and I were planning a trip to Amritsar to see the Golden Temple. But we couldn’t get the airline tickets on time, and she suggested on a whim- “Shall we go to Kochi instead?”
I had been there earlier on work but had never managed to explore Fort Kochi side which was recommended by another friend. So, I said- “Why not”.
I was all excited and went ahead with my planning for the trip- booking a hotel and looking up some other activities to do there. I was most keen to check out the unique Old Kochi Jewish heritage corner, a few famous churches there and above all there was the lure of fresh seafood of course.
Dang- a bit of Misfortune!
My friend had some other clashing family commitments, and she dropped out. I was really dejected and thought- there goes my holiday plans. I even reached out to my husband to see if he would like to join. It was around Valentine’s Day and the Lunar New Year holidays in Singapore.
I thought he might have a few days off from work. In the past, he has been reluctant to make any holiday plans or leave the comfort of home. I was the one who used to push for the trips and plan them meticulously around his holidays, his interests and his safety concerns.
Because of the uncertainty of travel companions, I couldn’t quite decide what to plan for this trip. Finally, I ended up going on my own for a 4-day trip to Kochi with a bit of trepidation about what lies ahead.
I had to push myself with a lot of self-motivational talk. “This is an adventure! I am loved. My life is precious. Even if I’m told otherwise by many people I held dear in my life. Blah Blah…“
I just landed, got a cab from the airport. The journey from the airport to the hotel took almost 2 hours and I reached Fort Kochi pretty late at night. It was pitch dark then and finding the place was tricky. We managed to get some directions from a few people. The place’s name had not been updated in Google maps. Hence the confusion. I think I was also sleepy, tired and a bit anxious about travelling alone that late at night.
The place looked like a backpacker’s hostel in a kind of seedy lane (so it seemed in the dim light of the night). I told myself- Go with the flow.
Foodie in Fort Kochi- the first few steps
I woke up early at the crack of dawn despite trying my best to sleep in- just excited to explore. The whole place looked so different in the daylight! Pretty lanes, cafes and old restored heritage buildings all around. I loved the old trees all over and there were birds chirping happily. Nothing was open that early of course- things start warming up after 9 or 10. But I found a tea stall near the bus stand next to the hotel to have a cup of tea. The location of the place turned out to be pretty good for exploring Fort Kochi.
Early morning walks are actually the best way to take in the unspoilt beauty of the place. Once the markets and streets get busy with noisy guides, shop salesmen and tourists you may miss out on spots which have their own quiet beauty. It helped me to scope out the place and plan for the day ahead. I also built up a healthy appetite for a good breakfast. 😉
There was breakfast arrangement in the hotel, and they served delicious kadala curry (made with black bengal gram) and puttu (steamed rice cakes) which I hadn’t eaten in ages!
I must have tasted that dish for the first time 20 years ago or so…It was hearty, freshly made and carb loaded – felt blissful and a bit drowsy. Washing it down with some strong filter coffee is highly recommended! 🙂
Little stolen moments in Fort Kochi
I snoozed for a while trying to read a book picked up from the hotel lobby. Woke up when the cleaning staff reached. An exploratory walk to stretch my legs seemed like a good idea. I saw a signboard for Cochin Cultural Center around the corner. They had a Kathakali show performance in the evening, and I thought why not. I booked the ticket and then went walking by the seaside.
There was a fish market which was pretty smelly and noisy. I wasn’t going to buy fish, so I sampled some corn instead.
I saw many bicycles around and it struck me that might be a good way to explore the lanes and by lanes. One of the guys sitting with a cycle seemed approachable. I asked if I could borrow one and offered some money. But the guy said- no need. I took the cycle and was thrilled to find that I hadn’t forgotten how to cycle at least. 🙂
When I returned the cycle and thanked the fellow he asked me, if he could take me for a ride. He hastily added, “It would help me exercise my leg muscles“. (Cheeky fellow- he must have been half my age.) 😀
I walked away quickly even though he followed for a bit making my heart skip a beat or two in mild anxiety. It was all safe though- it was broad daylight; a police station was nearby and many people around. I sat down for a coffee at a nearby cafe and laughed at my silly fears.
Sometimes you feel a little threatened by unwanted attention and wonder what exactly you had done- it may not be your fault. But women are often conditioned by society to feel that “they asked for it“.
Fortunate foodie finds for a Fish lover
Next was to find a suitable place for lunch. As I was walking back- an auto driver told me to hop in and he would take me to a nice local restaurant with good seafood. While I was going- I asked him whether they serve beer. He laughed and said- “I will buy for you. It’s much cheaper. You can drink more.” That was funny- I really don’t drink much! I decided to humor him. So, I gave him some money and went to enjoy a delicious lunch at a small cafe called Fusion Bay
The cafe had a peaceful casual Boho chic ambience and was relatively empty. I asked the staff for what’s good and they recommended many dishes. The challenge of eating alone is that you can only sample so much. So, I picked a mango fish curry which sounded promising. I was the only person dining in alone- it offers a unique vantage point. I don’t speak or understand the local language (Malayalam). Just people watching is interesting- they say 90% of human communication is non-verbal.
I walked out to the outdoor seating area as I waited for the food to arrive. I noticed that there was a pretty young girl all dressed up in a saree who came in giggling with a couple of young guys. She asked me for the table directions. I realized that they mistook me for the hotel staff. I was wearing a simple black t-shirt just like them. In a way that gave me a stupid thrill. 🙂 I had always dreamt of running my own cafe somewhere in a small town. Some dreams are not realized and maybe perhaps not very practical, but you derive a secret joy of nursing them in your heart.
Fortunate Foodie Finds of Mango Fish Curry
Backwaters fish like Karimeen (pearl spot) is interesting and different. A cross between river fish and sea fish. Doesn’t have too many small bones (just like sea fish) but is more flavorful and probably healthier just like river fish. This is my own theory and belief- open to others’ opinions and challenges on this hypothesis. 🙂 The Karimeen fried fish looked tempting, but I decided to go for a mango fish curry preparation with rice instead. Something heavier to help me enjoy an afternoon siesta before the evening show.
I enjoyed my lunch and returned with a few bottles of beer procured by the auto driver. He fixed up with me for a visit to the backwaters the next day. He also recommended a spa nearby for a massage. I thought of checking it out as well.
I looked at the many bottles of beer and thought it would be difficult to finish them in 4 days! So, I decided to start right away! I could barely drink a glass and fell fast asleep. 😀
(Note: I later learnt how to make the Mango Prawn Curry thanks to my friend Nithya. Do check out the recipe here for her own authentic family recipe. )
An evening of Foodie Finds in Fort Kochi
Evening started with an amusing Kathakali performance of a small skit titled Narakasuravadam. It was a story of a noble man being lured by a wicked woman and he kept on resisting her evil ways. I thought it would be boring. But the way all the various human emotions were enacted, and the funny (highly misogynistic) script made me laugh.
I realized that I was too loud when I got a few stares. But an elderly lady sitting next to me (I later found out she was a Canadian travelling with her friends from New York) laughed with me and put me at ease. She seemed to get the humor in the twisted script too. She reminded me of my grandmother with her twinkling eyes and funny face.
During an interlude she pointed out a gentleman taking photos, and I asked her what about him. I thought she was checking out his rather complicated professional camera. She said, “He has a bag just like mine. It’s missing. It was light and easy to carry a few things during my walks”.
I turned to see the bag she was referring to- it was a cheap nylon string bag. And I realized I had something similar- a red and black string bag- a gift from my husband.
It made me a little sad remembering his meticulously packing multiple tissues, towels, hand sanitizers, toothpicks, water bottle and other little “essentials” whenever he would step out for a walk.
I smiled thinking how we miss little things in life at times. Her sadness in the loss of that seemingly insignificant bag which was perfect for her needs was relatable. I seldom share my grief now for fear of being admonished to “Just get over it and start dating again“.
A Pleasant Evening of Foodie Finds in Fort Kochi
After the show ended, I decided to go to a place nearby which the hotel staff had recommended for live music. I thought I would have a quick drink and snacks. The place turned out to be a sports bar with loud Hindi music blaring from the speakers, a giant screen and karaoke option for the guests. Some of the middle-aged men around were playing a game of pool and a few of them were trying to sing and dance. Some Shahrukh Khan number, I think.
To me it appeared very loud, silly and forced. But perhaps they were enjoying and having fun. I wasn’t enjoying the karaoke music (noise actually), so I decided to finish my drink and leave quickly. Soon the men were joined by a couple of ladies, and they seemed to sober down immediately. I interpreted that these were the spouses who kept them sensible. 😉
After my drink I went for a walk around-it was a lovely, pleasant evening with a clear sky. But the lanes were quite deserted. I guess most people were either dining or relaxing in a bar by now. I walked a bit to a place which seemed to be recommended as a place for good food. But the hotel staff said they can’t let me in because I have no booking. I saw there were empty tables but when I asked the staff said those were already reserved. They told me to come back next day at a different timing. I decided to have a meal at another place closer to the hotel which I had noticed earlier. Now it was time to sample some beef fry.
Beef fry – Kerala style
I entered a restaurant and chose a table near a window so that I could watch the people walking by the streets. I asked the waiter for a recommendation of a beef dish and he said beef pepper fry would be a popular option with Kerala Porotta (flaky yummy flatbread).
He chatted with me and said that he was also from Bengal. I wondered how he could make out that I was Bengali. He was a young fellow so I figured that I could ask him for a recommendation for a live music place. He suggested a place with local rock music bands but I saw it was at quite a distance.
I noticed there was a big group of tourists in the middle of the restaurant (perhaps 20 odd) who filled up the place with their loud conversation and laughter.
I observed that group in the center of the restaurant with some curiosity. Some of them had tattoos and I remembered how I had once thought about getting a tattoo myself. After struggling to save my skin from really painful psoriasis and TSW (read more here- About Me), I think it was rather pointless now to scar it further.
I tried guessing where they could be from- seemed like a mixed group. From their accent and ways, I think they were American. Simple gestures struck me-like a woman who was silently listening to another talking volubly and rubbing her neck. I realized she was quite tired and stressed. Which made me remember that I longed to go to bed as well. Live music was something that I would probably have enjoyed with my husband or another travel companion more.
Foodie Finds in Kochi backwaters
For nature lovers I highly recommend a 60-90 mins boat ride around the backwaters of Kerala. The boatman guided with some details about the birds around the place- a good refresher for me after my Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary visit. The route is well charted for tourists with designated spots to stop in between for little breaks and taking pictures around mangrove trees.
Two special memories of that ride- One was hopping across tree stumps in the water which connected a small jetty with the coast. That jetty was a makeshift coconut water pitstop for tourists. The coconut water is a blessing for those looking for some hydration in the hot and humid conditions.
The other was again hopping off the boat to go climb a tree. Something I hadn’t done for a long time. It was tricky balancing across the boat and then the tree. Simple things like this sometimes helped me to connect with my past and also help to feel a part of the natural surroundings.
The boatman was amused- I guess they do these things every day and couldn’t understand my thrill of an experience which is actually rare for me now. I realized later these are the things that I could indulge in when on my own. I didn’t have to worry about another person who may be reluctant to do the same or might be getting impatient to move on.
Foodie Finds in Kochi “By the Bayou”
After the boat ride I was hungry, and the auto driver asked me what I would like to eat. I said fish in an authentic local place. Little did I know I was up for a real treat. This was as authentic as you get it! A tiny open-air canteen tucked away under a bridge right next to the backwaters. The place had a makeshift feel with benches put under tiled tin roofs.
It was full of students and local families, so I knew the food had to be good. Cash only payment, menu written in Malayalam on a board and the proprietor spoke only in Malayalam. Apart from exotic fish and seafood, I was keen to try their home brewed specialty fresh coconut toddy.
I had Karimeen wrapped in Banana leaf with appams while the auto driver had cassava with curry. He was shy and reluctant to share the fish but accepted when I insisted. He didn’t drink so that was a lot for me to consume. Luckily fresh toddy (It was collected the same morning) is not very alcoholic. It tasted mildly fermented with a little tangy fizz- kind of like a tastier version of kombucha.
After lunch, he took me to buy some Kerala handloom sarees and fabric. I learnt on the way that the auto driver had actually migrated to Kochi from Bengaluru. He used to run a shop near Koramangala, and his trading business went bankrupt during the Covid period. He laughed and said that he was happy now that he had paid off his debt and staff. Felt free and comfortable in Kochi earning an honest living. I realized how he was making the most of his transition to a different city and a modest way of living respectably.
Wrapping up Foodie Finds in Fort Kochi
There was an art museum Kerala Folklore Museum that I recommend visiting for art lovers. It’s not very large but there were quite a few stunning pieces. Though I wish they had some recorded device to give the details behind the artefacts. It was also a welcome airconditioned respite on a hot afternoon post lunch tour.
The night before I left Fort Kochi, I visited the Fine Dining restaurant which had refused me a table. The same thing happened again. I thought that perhaps I was not dressed appropriately (I was in shorts and slippers). The place was full of foreigners, their own snooty looking guests and a big group of people who looked like they were on an official tour or conference. I still went ahead and insisted. I explained that I had walked a long way twice to have dinner there.
One of the waiters finally got me a table. I sat down feeling a bit like Julia Roberts in Pretty woman who was denied entry into a swanky store. 🙂 I was no hooker but made to feel a bit unworthy of having a peaceful meal in an upscale restaurant. I had a simple dinner of appams with veg stew. The stew was very mild and perfect after much eating and indulging through the day.
And of course, the last thing was to get an Ayurvedic massage at a local spa. It was really what I needed after many days of tiring walking around and excessive drinking (by my standards). The place I visited was nothing spectacular but was clean and professional. Served the purpose as I was relaxed enough to fall fast asleep during the massage. That helped before the long journey back from Fort Kochi.
Foodie Finds in Kochi- One for the Road
There was another meal which I remember purely because it came through an unexpected cancellation of my return flight. It was at a non-descript place near a Treebo hotel close to the Kochi airport where I stayed overnight.
I was quite irritated by the delay in the travel, the cancellation of tickets and the added expense of last-minute flight, hotel bookings and other arrangements. The network connection was patchy and luckily my friend Soumya was available to help me with the return flight bookings online when I called her from the hotel.
As I ate that meal, I remembered to be grateful for the food that I could eat, the help of friends and kind strangers. And even if I say it myself, I still had the presence of mind for being able to make the last-minute necessary arrangements and the financial independence to do this quietly without being harassed.
I didn’t tell my immediate family members any of this (apart from a cousin from whom I sought some advice). It didn’t make sense to stress them out. I did call later after I reached home safely.
Footnote
This was supposed to be a budget trip that ended up costing me a bit more than I had planned. But it helped me to regain a bit of my lost youth and will for life. It also helped me to remember that sometimes life gives you a mixed bag of memories. Somethings were lost and yet something more was found.
I lost a small, cute pillow which I had carried as a protective talisman (a gift from my friend, Nithya). I left it at that Treebo Hotel near Kochi airport. But I did find my way back home even without it. The love that was shared by my friends in Bangalore protected me. I didn’t need the pillow, but here’s a pic for the sweet memory that remained.
I end with a couple of lines from one of my favourite poems from school days- Ulysses by Alfred, Lord Tennyson. Perhaps, I miss that spirit and fire that I had in my heart when I was younger and looked up to masculine codes of leadership. I see it in others still and it makes me wistful at times. But mostly I prefer being a backbencher or sitting in a corner.
Happy Ganesh Chaturthi and Happy Onam holidays for those who are celebrating it. 🙂
Tho’ much is taken, much abides; and tho’
We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are;
One equal temper of heroic hearts,
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.
– Ulysses by Alfred, Lord Tennyson
